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►For many months I had
been staying in Japan and Korea travelling on a Triumph Thunderbird motorcycle
which had taken me safely through 20 countries in the previous 41/2 years. It
was my greatest wish that during the summer of 1971 I could ride across Siberia
back to Europe, however, after waiting a long time, I had to give up that idea
for the time being and, as a rather poor alternative, send the Triumph by ship
to England and take the TransSiberian express from Nahodka to Moscow in order to
return to Europe.
Siberia! The very name has sounded a challenge to every
traveller, in my own erroneous pre-conception it always conjured up visions of a
vast snow covered wasteland interspersed with the occasional friendly wooden
cottage, of course, oil lamps were always burning inside. Little did I expect to
find an excellent railway system spanning the continent 6,000 miles in length,
fine large industrial cities with well kept streets and excellent facilities for
sport and recreation, including motorcycle racing on ice! Though the train
journey was a poor substitute for motorcycling; when I crossed Siberia,
December, 1971, the whole experience was a revelation. The final blow came one
bitter night as I walked in the streets of Irkutsk battling against the wind of
a Siberian winter, the other people were hardly visible under their heavy
clothing. After half an hour I staggered into what looked like a restaurant
gasping for breath. I would drink anything tea, coffee, soup, as long as it was
HOT! After the inevitable language barrier had been broken down, I got the
message, they only sold ice cream! And sure enough, as I looked around the room,
there they were, all eating ice cream! I thought, "Those crazy Russians," and my
feelings were reiterated a few days later in Novosibersk, as one Sunday
afternoon, with the thermometer reading 20, I watched the stars of Russian ice
racing performing in front of over 5,000 frozen, but delighted spectators!
In order to
appreciate the essential details of the motorcycle scene in USSR it is necessary
to start near the end of my Russian journey in Moscow at the office of "Za Rulom"
(At The Steering Wheel) Motor Sport Magazine. Here, through an interpreter, I
was able to speak to the chief editor Mr. Shugrov. I asked about the basic
economy of motorcycle ownership in the USSR and obtained some rather staggering
information. The highest salary that a young technician working industry age
(around 22) could hope to earn would be 120 rouble/monthly (the highest salary
in USSR is reputed to be 600 rouble/monthly for the president of Moscow
University!), and the cost of a 350cc machine is 550 roubles. (The official
exchange for the rouble is 1 rouble equals 1 U.S. dollar, though on the world
market outside Russia it is worth considerably less.) According to Mr. Shugrov
the average boy would have to save for at least 1 to 2 years to buy a 125cc and
2 years to obtain a 350cc.
To the
average westerner the outlook must seem rather bleak for motorcycle sport and
the necessary home market support for one of the world's largest motorcycle
industries (claimed output 2,000,000 units annually). How can our sport flourish
without high incomes and the absence of machine, tire, and oil sponsors? We, in
the West, would be justified in considering this a pretty grim situation.
However, when comparing our way of life and their differing idealism it is all
too easy to fall into the trap of seeing everything from one point of view. It
can be far more constructive and realistic to examine results, then, at the same
time, take an avid interest in their contrasting methods of achievement under a
system that is more highly organized to the achievement of results at the
expense of a certain loss of individual freedom. In theory, the rider's wealth
should have no bearing on his ability to obtain the best equipment, and become
proficient in a particular sport, whether it be moto ball, moto cross,
reliability trial, etc.
As in the
West, the basis of motorcycle sport is the club, after this, the resemblance is
difficult to relate. In Russia, the club receives a large grant from the
appropriate government committee of Physical Education and Sport. It can also
receive some money from entry fees at race meetings and other events. New riders
who enter a club to receive training in a particular sport must pay a small fee
around 30 cents/yearly. The main qualification for entry to a club is a good
school record which is essential!
On being
accepted for entry to the club, the new member, assuming that he does not own
his own machinery, receives a motorcycle according to his particular interest,
i.e. moto ball, moto cross, ice racing, speedway, trial, touring, etc. This
machine will, in the first instance, not be the latest model but rather one that
has seen service in the hands of older club members, nevertheless, it will have
been well maintained and be in good condition. The member can keep this machine
at his own home and is responsible for its maintenance though he receives the
necessary spare parts from the club, also, clubs have workshop facilities for
their members. An experienced clubman is required to be responsible for the
training of each new member. As the new members' ability increases, especially
his proficiency in a particular sport, then he should receive a better machine.
The club
member is also supplied with motorcycle clothing, helmet, etc. and fuel for
events and training. There will be many Novice events for the new rider to
compete in before being lip-graded to the more advanced and specialized branches
of the sport. While some of us might not like or agree with such a system one
has only to look at the legendary achievements of Russian riders in ice racing,
speedway and moto cross to see that, bearing in mind their country's much lower
standard of living, such a system gives fine results. Motorcycle sport is well
established in the USSR and apart from government support is well accepted by
the general public.
The
following sports are practiced by motorcyclists throughout the USSR: Moto cross,
using Czechoslovakian CZ machines for International Events; Russian lsch for
National competition; moto ball is popular using 175cc Khabrov machines;
endurance and cross country time trials with various types of motorcycles; ice
racing and speedway draw the largest crowdsthe riders prefer Czech Jawa and ESO
500cc motorcycles for this type of event. Road racing is not so well established
in Russia as in most western countries. There have, however, been some
interesting attempts to produce a machine suitable for International
competition. The most recent example which comes to mind was the four-cylinder
Vostoc 500cc, rather like the MV in layout. It started at the lmatra
International race around 4 years ago and was claimed to develop 80 horsepower;
after this initial showing, development of this interesting machine does not
seem to have been continued.
For those
interested in statistics Mr. Shugrov informed me that the first Russian Ice
Championship was in 1922 and the highest motorcycle speed record was 230 km/hr.
(138 mph), by a Kometa 3 500cc.
As I entered
Siberia early December, 1971, I looked from the train window at the frozen
landscape and wondered just how much motorcycling could I hope to see in Russia?
Sure enough, in the first town that I visited there were some police and other
riders plowing through the snow covered streets on rather old Ural sidecar
outfits; due to the language difficulty it proved extremely difficult to
approach them and they were reluctant to have any photographs taken! One
afternoon while looking from the window of the TransSiberian express at a small
Siberian village I saw two solo riders on a small two-stroke approach an icy
corner too fast and slide off across the road. However, one of my main ambitions
was yet to be realized. For many years I had wanted to visit and photograph an
ice race and what better place to start than Siberia!
At every
town I asked the In-tourist guide, "Could I see some motorcycle sport instead of
the usual sightseeing tour of buildings and monuments?" In Irkutsk they kindly
arranged for me to visit a school training teenage boys to learn how to maintain
a motorcycle. However, when I arrived at Novosibersk on the weekend of December
18 and 19 and found that it coincided with the annual Ice Race Championship
between Novosibersk and Ufa, a town in the Urals, I persuaded the Intourist
guide to accompany me and give an introduction to the motor sport organizers.
The event was taking place at a course known as the "Moto Drome" on Sunday
afternoon. Mr. Kooznetsov trainer of the Novosibersk team gave some interesting
information about the event through an interpreter. It was the traditional
meeting with the Ufa team which had come many miles from the Urals. There were
two meetings every year and this was one of the most famous of Russian ice
racing competitions attracting their best riders of International status. The
Championship was named after Nerasov (I never dared ask who he might have been).
Novosibersk meets three cities in the Championship every year in Novosibersk. I
learned that on the previous day there had been a team competition which had
resulted in a win for Novosibersk with a score of 45 to 33. A crowd of 5,000,
which Mr. Kooznetsov described as "disappointing," waited in the 20
temperature, anticipating some exciting racing in the individual championships
on Sunday, December 10. This was more or less assured with the ice racing World
Champion for four years running, Khaderov, matched against such stars of
International fame as Dubinion and the latest "find" Paznikov who, at 22, is
Russia's finest prospect for the World Championships in ice racing and speedway.
The Sunday
races would be run in a series of 20 heats with the complete teams taking part,
7 riders from Novosibersk and 7 from Ufa, making a very full and exciting
program. Points would be awarded as follows: Win 3 points, 2nd 2 points, 3rd
1 point and 4th-0. The organization seemed very thorough, before the race each
rider received a medical examination from an attractive female doctor! And in
view of what lie ahead, this was well justified!
All
facilities were extended so that I could take photographs. The machines were
brought out from the warm garages and I had the extreme pleasure of meeting many
riders. Mr. Zooznetsov guided me across the ice to the center of the circuit,
which would be a good place to take photographs. Trying to stand on the smooth
ice surface of the track I thought, "How can anyone walk on such a circuit, let
alone ride!" This was the first time that I had had the opportunity to see ice
racing at first hand, coupled with that it was my first visit to a motorcycle
sport event in the USSR. It is difficult to describe adequately what I felt at
the time, the racing seemed like speedway though much more dramatic and exciting
using machines with large spiked tires. The riders completed the course at great
speed, seemingly under perfect control, throwing up a shower of splinters as the
rear wheel spikes dug into the ice. I was warned not to approach the course too
closely as a rider might slide out of control. However, during the whole event,
this never happened. Between each group of heats a large truck with plough and
scraper attached to the front drove around and levelled the course off. This was
necessary as the spiked tires had, by this time, torn the course up into a
series of rough grooves.
Only the
week before I had been in the relatively warm winter climate of Japan, the cold
seemed intense. I tried to operate my cameras with gloved hands and had little
success. At one point film became so brittle with the cold that it broke and I
never felt anything wrong until I had missed many exposures! Between heats I was
lucky to be invited into the club house before the start of the next races. As I
came into the warm room the camera lens steamed up and it was possible to thaw
out a little. I wondered how the spectators managed to sum up enough enthusiasm
to stand out in the cold for four hours with little protection from the cold
Siberian wind.
The racing was extremely exciting. As in speedway the start seemed very
critical. The riders let the clutch in as a wire across the track was lifted,
too much power and the front wheel lifted and the machine tended to go out of
control. Too little power and the rider came late into the first corner. The
atmosphere surrounding the meeting was friendly and enthusiastic; the critical
heats were numbers 13 and 17 and, at this time, the crowd cheered with
excitement.►
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◄In the
13th heat Kharderov and Paznikov were racing and, up to this time, both had
maximum points; in this heat Paznikov came in first and Kharderov second. In
heat 17 Kharderov and Dubinion were together and, up to this time, both had lost
one point; this heat decided second point place as Dubinion came first and
Kharderov second. Both of these heats were extremely close. Some people were
saying that Kharderov was not really "trying," others said that Paznikov was the
future prospect for the World Ice Champion. The overall scores were Paznikov-15,
Dubinion-14, and Kharderov-13.
I was just
left with the highest respect and amazement that anyone could ride at all under
such tough conditions. Finally, the In-tourist guide left me as she was not very
interested in motorcycling. Then it was easy, in spite of the langauge barrier,
to relate with the riders and their friends. The mutual enthusiasm for our sport
can easily surmount such artificial barriers.
Later,
through an interpreter, I was able to speak with Paznikov and Kharderov. Though
Kharderov has travelled to the West many times his use of foreign languages
would appear to be limited to such useful phrases as "Hello Girlie," and "Vakra
Flika." All through our conversions I was extremely impressed with their modesty
and utter dedication to our sport of motorcycling. During this experience I kept
wishing that others could have the same opportunities as myself to bypass for
only once the speeches of politicians and come to know such people who, by any
standards, were motorcycle sportsmen of the highest caliber. It was with the
greatest pleasure that I read long after leaving the USSR in "Motor Cycle," of
March 15th, that in the World Ice Racing Championship Kharderov had again
achieved first place for the 5th year in succession, and that Paznikov was third
in the overall Championship, as a result of the meeting at Nassjo, Sweden.
The
president of the Novosibersk club gave me a ride back to the hotel after the
meeting; that was a memorable experience, at the end of a memorable day. He must
have been a well known and important personality in Novosibersk; wearing
uniform, great coat and fur cap, he certainly looked the part as he took
Kharderov and myself back to the city. In the car was a loud hailer and whenever
we came across a bus or car in the way, which was very often at the speed he
drove along the rutted icy road, he just shouted at them to move over and let us
pass. They immediately complied, even when, on one occasion, we did a U turn
right across
a main
thoroughfare. Here I was in Russia after my first ice race ever, and now the
whole scene passed in front of me like a film. Surely this cannot be reality! I
must be dreaming and then, as if to bring myself back to earth, I noticed that
the interior of the president's car was literally covered with Castrol Oil and
STP stickers!
Instead of
the usual sightseeing tour, the Intourist guide in Irkutsk, Siberia, agreed to
accompany me as interpreter to the municipal School of Education and Culture
where, among many activities, there was a training course for teenagers on
motorcycling. This was an evening program for workers and students. As I walked
with the attractive Intourist guide through a snow storm I wondered just what to
expect at this School of Education and Culture in Irkutsk.
We came out
of the cold into a large building which had obviously been converted for the
purpose. Immediately on entering there was a ballet dancing class in progress.
As the Intourist guide left me briefly the instructor came over and spoke at
some length to me in Russian. The guide translated that he was explaining that
there was no public program for ballet dancing fans that evening! However, we
located the correct room descending a spiral staircase surrounding a large water
fountain. Surely there could be no motorcycle class in such an atmosphere!
At the
bottom of the stairs we came to a small room which was sparsely furnished. There
were benches around the room and several students were dismantling engines,
carburetors, etc. In the center of the room were three motorcycles and one
three-wheeler delivery truck. The walls were covered with charts and sectional
diagrams of different types of motorcycles all of Russian make. Ever since my
connection with the R.A.C./A.C.U. training scheme in England I have been
interested in this subject. So with the help of my guide I questioned Mr.
Yevgeny Ruzhinkov, class director, and gained the following facts about their
program.
The course
is free to all young people in the age range of 14 to 17, and again the main
qualification for entry is a good school record. The total course time is 180
hours divided up as follows: Road Safety-40 hours, Maintenance-80 hours, and
Practical use outside and riding-60 hours. At least 13 motorcycles were
available for the students training, and Mr. Ruzhnikov explained that he took
four groups of 15 students 4 hours per week. He usually had two to four girls
per class. During the summer, in addition to outside training, they ran summer
camps using the school motorcycles for this purpose. Another incentive for his
students to complete the 180-hour course was free admission to all the
motorcycle sport events at the Irkutsk stadium. After successfully completing
the course they have the opportunity to automatically enter one of the local
motorcycle clubs. Irkutsk's population of 500,000 has five motorcycle clubs.
At the same
time I also learned about another similar network of motorcycling sport schools
accented towards the sport run by DOSAAF in many of the larger Russian cities.
These courses are for boys age 14 to 16 years, and embrace many types of sport
activities run by a society under the Army, Navy, and Air Force.
All through
the interview Mr. Ruzhnikov kept apologizing for the poor workshop, old training
motorcycles, etc. in spite of my own reassurances that, in many countries, boys
did not have the same opportunities for a comprehensive training in the art of
motorcycling. Normally with no more than a friendly nod from a dealer after
being shown the location of throttle, clutch and brakes, they would be let loose
on overcrowded roads into extremely dangerous traffic conditions and often learn
the hard way.
Especially
in the United States is the case where most of the present generation of young
motorcyclists have parents completely lacking in motorcycling experience. With
statistics over the years proving that, while a motorcycle is vulnerable in
modern traffic conditions, a trained and experienced rider is one of the safest
road users. Surely the money that is spent preparing restructive legislation on
the use of a motorcycle could be better spent on sponsoring a training scheme as
the R.A.C./A.C.U. in England.
The Russian
motorcycle industry, with a claimed output of 2,000,000 units annually, is one
of the world's largest and, within the scope of this article, it is impossible
to give more complete details. However, it is known that the majority of
machines produced in the USSR are of the general transport and touring type,
equivalent to those produced in the West around the late 50s. I would suggest
that anyone requiring further information on this subject should write to the
U.K. importer, Wells Motorcycles, 939 Romford Road, Manor Park, London E.12,
England.
An anomaly
of the Russian motorcycle scene is that in spite of a large motorcycle industry,
and also the wonderful acceptance of motorcycle sport by the general public,
Russia now remains one of the few countries which does not admit motorcycle
tourists from the West! On many occasions I have tried to overcome this barrier
and see the USSR from the seat of my much travelled Triumph Thunderbird, but
with always the same disappointing result.
Many reasons
have been given for this refusal though the basis of its content would appear to
be an old out-of-date rule going back several years made by Intourist (the
Soviet Government body dealing with travel in the USSR). We can only hope that,
in the not too distant future, this ruling will be relaxed and we can enjoy this
interesting country on a motorcycle. I would like to suggest that anyone
interested in taking a motorcycle to Russia should write to the following people
suggesting that a permit be granted to allow motorcycle travel in the USSR: The
Director of Motor Tourism, Intourist, 16, Karl Marx Prospect, Moscow, USSR; Mr.
1patenko, president, USSR Central Automotor Club, Osoviahimawskij KW 18,
Toushine, Moscow, USSR; and The Chief Editor, Hlypriau Typuct, Tourist Magazine,
Kirova Street 13, Moscow, USSR. Paul Pratt■ |
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